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Moles tunnel under your lawn, leaving behind ugly ridges and dirt piles that make your yard look like a minefield. They’re after grubs and earthworms, not your plants, but that doesn’t make the damage any less annoying. A single mole can excavate 100 feet of tunnel in a single day. Here’s how to evict them and keep them out.
1. Identify Active Tunnels First
Before you start any removal method, you need to know where the moles are actually working. Look for raised ridges in your lawn that feel spongy when you step on them. Flatten a small section of ridge with your foot. Check back in 24 hours – if it’s raised again, that’s an active tunnel.
Moles create two types of tunnels: surface runways (the raised ridges you see) and deeper feeding tunnels (the mole hills). Surface tunnels are used for daily travel. Deep tunnels are where they hunt for food. Most control methods work best in surface tunnels where moles travel regularly.
2. Use Scissor-Jaw or Harpoon Traps
Trapping is the most reliable method if you have patience. Scissor-jaw traps and harpoon traps are the two most effective designs. Both kill moles quickly when placed correctly.
Set traps in active surface tunnels, not mole hills. Dig out a section of tunnel slightly wider than your trap. Clear loose dirt from the bottom so the trap sits on firm ground. Set the trigger mechanism to spring at the slightest pressure. Cover the trap with a bucket to block light and weather. Check daily – moles are sensitive to disturbance and may avoid triggered but empty traps.
Place multiple traps along the same tunnel system. Moles travel the same routes repeatedly, so you’re increasing odds of catching them. Expect to catch one mole per active tunnel system. They typically live alone except during breeding season.
3. Install Underground Barrier Fencing
Physical barriers prevent moles from entering specific areas. Dig a trench 24 inches deep around garden beds, flower borders, or your entire lawn if you’re dedicated. Install hardware cloth or wire mesh with quarter-inch openings. The mesh should extend 18 inches deep with 6 inches bent outward at the bottom.
Backfill the trench, leaving 2-3 inches of mesh above ground to prevent moles from climbing over. This method is labor-intensive but permanent. It protects specific areas without poisoning wildlife. Best for protecting vegetable gardens and expensive landscaping.
4. Apply Castor Oil Repellent
Castor oil is the most effective homemade repellent. Mix 1 cup warm water, 2 tablespoons dish soap, and 8 tablespoons castor oil. The soap helps the oil mix with water and penetrate soil. Spray or pour onto active mole hills and tunnel ridges.
The castor oil coats the moles’ food sources (grubs and worms) making them taste terrible. Moles will relocate to find better-tasting meals. Reapply after rain or every two weeks until activity stops. This method is safe for pets, kids, and beneficial wildlife.
Commercial castor oil-based repellents are also available and may last longer than homemade versions. Look for concentrated formulas you mix yourself rather than ready-to-spray bottles which are mostly water.
5. Flood Tunnels with Water
Find an active mole hill (fresh dirt, not collapsed). Stick your garden hose directly into the tunnel entrance and turn the water on full blast for 15-20 minutes. The tunnel floods, forcing moles to evacuate or drown.
This works best in clay-heavy soil that holds water. Sandy soil drains too quickly. Be prepared for a muddy mess afterward. You may need to repeat this several times. The advantage is it’s free if you already own a hose, and it doesn’t introduce chemicals or traps into your yard.
6. Use Ultrasonic Solar Stakes
Stake-mounted solar units emit vibrations and ultrasonic pulses every 20-30 seconds that irritate moles underground. Each stake covers about 6,500 square feet. Space them 80 feet apart in a grid pattern across your lawn.
They take 2-4 weeks to show results as moles gradually relocate. The pulses don’t hurt the moles – they just make the area unpleasant enough that they move on. Skip these if you have a small yard where coverage math doesn’t work out. Best for lawns over half an acre where trapping isn’t practical. Position stakes in full sun so they stay charged.
7. Plant Mole-Repelling Bulbs
Plant daffodils, alliums, marigolds, or fritillaries around your garden perimeter. Moles avoid areas where these bulbs grow because the smell and taste repel them. This works as a barrier, not a cure – existing moles won’t leave, but new ones won’t move in.
Plant bulbs 4-6 inches deep in fall for spring blooms. Space daffodils 6 inches apart, alliums 8-10 inches apart. You’ll need at least 50 bulbs to create an effective barrier around a typical suburban backyard. Takes a full season to establish but lasts for years with minimal maintenance.
8. Eliminate Their Food Source
Moles eat grubs, earthworms, and insects. Apply beneficial nematodes or milky spore powder to your lawn to reduce grub populations. Less food means moles may relocate voluntarily.
This is a long-term strategy that won’t provide immediate relief. It takes a full season to reduce grub populations significantly. However, it’s the most environmentally friendly approach and improves overall lawn health. Combine with other methods for faster results.
9. Maintain a Dry Lawn
Moles prefer moist soil where earthworms are active near the surface. Let your lawn dry out between waterings to force worms deeper and make hunting harder for moles. Overwatered lawns are mole magnets.
Adjust sprinklers to water deeply but less frequently. Aim for 1-1.5 inches of water per week including rainfall. Morning watering is better than evening because the grass dries during the day. Drier surface soil encourages moles to move elsewhere.
10. Call a Professional Wildlife Removal Service
If you’ve tried DIY methods and the damage continues, hire a professional. They have experience placing traps in optimal locations and can identify how many moles you’re dealing with. They also handle disposal, which some homeowners prefer not to do themselves.
Professionals typically charge per mole removed or a flat fee for ongoing service until the problem is resolved. They may also identify contributing factors you missed, like excessive irrigation or grub infestations that are attracting moles to your property specifically.