1. Use a Reflector
Get a reflector. It’ll solve your shadow problem for portraits, still lifes, macro shots, and anything else where you can get close to the subject. The job of a reflector is simple: bounce light back into the shadowy side of your subject so one half doesn’t turn into a void.
Hold it opposite your main light source. The light hits your subject, bounces to the reflector, bounces back again. Shadows filled. Problem solved.
Most reflectors you’ll buy have a matte white surface that gives even, neutral light. But you can also get gold (warmer tones, good for portraits) or metallic silver (bright, punchy highlights).
2. Make Your Own Reflector
Two sheets of A3 white foam board from any stationery store. Tape them together with masking tape to create a hinge. That’s it.
For smaller subjects, fold it. For larger ones, open it flat. The hinge means you can stand it up on its own, which is perfect for tabletop work or still lifes where you don’t want to hold it.
3. Alternative Reflective Surfaces
Don’t overthink it. A white sheet works. Paper works. Anything pale and matte will bounce light back. If you want something more aggressive, grab a mirror (it’ll give you a direct mirror image of your main light, which can be useful or weird depending on what you’re after).
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