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Termites eat wood, and they live in warm, moist soil near food sources such as fallen trees, woodpiles, and houses. They usually enter homes through gaps, building underground nests connected by mud tunnels. They’ll go after wooden doors, window frames, cabinets, shelves, and structural framing. Even homes with minimal wood are at risk if there’s any timber for them to chew through.
Here’s how to deal with them.
1. Boric Acid
The classic termite killer. Boric acid dehydrates termites and shuts down their nervous system when they ingest it or crawl through it. You can spray it as a solution (mix 1 tablespoon per cup of water) or dust it directly into cracks, wall voids, and areas where you see activity.
The dust form lasts longer since it doesn’t evaporate. Apply it inside walls through small drill holes, under flooring, and along foundation cracks. Termites track it back to the colony. Reapply every few weeks until activity stops.
2. Beneficial Nematodes
These microscopic worms hunt and kill termites in soil. Buy them from garden suppliers and mix with water according to package directions. Spray the solution around your foundation, in garden beds near the house, and anywhere you’ve spotted mud tubes.
Apply early morning or evening when soil is moist and temperatures are moderate. Nematodes die in direct sunlight and heat. Water the area after application to help them burrow into the soil. They’ll seek out termites and other soil pests for about two weeks.
3. Cardboard Bait Traps
Simple but effective for spot infestations. Wet several pieces of corrugated cardboard and stack them near areas of termite activity. Termites are drawn to the cellulose and moisture. After a few days, you’ll have a cardboard stack crawling with termites.
Take the whole thing outside and burn it. Repeat the process until you stop catching termites. This won’t eliminate an established colony, but it’s useful for monitoring and reducing numbers while you deploy other methods.
4. Orange Oil
D-limonene (the active compound in orange oil) dissolves termite exoskeletons on contact. It works best for localized infestations where you can directly apply it to termites and their galleries. Drill small holes into infested wood and inject orange oil using a syringe or applicator bottle.
You’ll need multiple applications over several weeks. Orange oil doesn’t travel far through wood, so you have to hit active areas directly. It also evaporates quickly. Good for furniture and small structural members, but not practical for whole-house infestations.
5. Neem Oil Spray
Neem disrupts termite molting and reproduction. Mix neem oil with water and a bit of dish soap (to help it emulsify), then spray it on exposed wood surfaces, foundation areas, and around entry points. It won’t kill on contact like boric acid, but it prevents termites from maturing and reproducing.
Apply weekly for the first month, then monthly for maintenance. Neem also works as a mild repellent. Useful as part of a multi-method approach, but don’t rely on it alone for active infestations.
6. Vinegar Solution
White vinegar mixed 50/50 with water makes a decent termite spray for surface activity. The acetic acid damages their bodies. Spray it directly on termites you can see and saturate wood surfaces where they’re active.
It’s temporary at best. Vinegar evaporates and doesn’t penetrate deep into wood, so you’re only hitting surface dwellers. Reapply daily if you’re using this method. Better as a stopgap while you arrange professional treatment or implement stronger solutions.
7. Sunlight Exposure
Termites hate light and dry conditions. If the infestation is in a piece of furniture or a board you can move, drag it outside into direct sun for two to three days. The UV radiation and heat will kill termites, and the dryness drives out any survivors.
Obviously limited to movable items. Not helpful for walls, floors, or structural elements. But if you’ve got an infested dresser or decorative wood piece, this costs nothing and works surprisingly well.
8. Heat Treatment
Professional heat treatment involves raising the temperature inside your home (or a section of it) to 120-140°F for several hours. This kills termites at all life stages, including eggs. Companies use specialized heaters and fans to distribute heat evenly.
It’s non-toxic and leaves no residue, which makes it a good option if you’re sensitive to chemicals. The downside is cost (typically several thousand dollars for a whole house) and the hassle of evacuating and removing heat-sensitive items. But it works in one session with no ongoing monitoring required.
9. Termite Barriers
Physical barriers stop termites before they reach your house. Install stainless steel mesh or crushed rock barriers around the foundation during construction or renovation. Termites can’t chew through steel mesh and won’t tunnel through properly sized rock (10-20mm diameter).
You can also apply chemical barrier treatments to the soil perimeter. Professionals trench around your foundation and apply termiticides like fipronil or imidacloprid. Termites crossing the treated zone die or carry the chemical back to the colony. Chemical barriers last 5-10 years depending on soil conditions and product used.
10. Moisture Control
Termites need moisture to survive. Fix leaking pipes, improve drainage around your foundation, and install vapor barriers in crawl spaces. Keep gutters clean and extend downspouts away from the house. Remove wood-to-soil contact (like stacked firewood against siding or mulch touching the foundation).
This won’t eliminate an existing infestation, but it’s necessary for long-term prevention. A dry environment makes your house less attractive to termites and helps other treatment methods work better. Inspect crawl spaces and basements regularly for moisture problems.
11. Professional Chemical Treatment
For serious infestations, call an exterminator. They have access to stronger termiticides (like liquid treatments or foam applications) and can assess the full extent of damage. Professional treatments usually include trenching and injecting termiticide around the foundation, drilling and treating interior areas, and installing monitoring stations.
Expect to pay $1,000-$3,000 for a typical house. Most companies offer warranties that cover retreatment if termites return within a certain period. If you’re seeing multiple mud tubes, hearing hollow-sounding wood, or finding extensive damage, don’t mess around with DIY methods. Get a professional inspection.